Part 1
SPF and PA, read together
SPF measures protection against UVB, the wavelength that burns. PA, shown as plus signs, measures protection against UVA, the wavelength associated with ageing and pigmentation. A daily sunscreen should carry both ratings — SPF alone tells you only half the story.
- SPF 50+ is the highest rating printed in Japan; higher numbers are not permitted.
- PA+ through PA++++ indicates increasing UVA protection.
- For daily city wear, SPF 30 PA+++ is a reasonable floor; SPF 50+ PA++++ for long days outside.
Part 2
Why the textures feel different
Japanese sunscreens lean on lightweight alcohol and silicone carriers that flash off quickly, leaving a dry, almost powdery finish. That is why they sit well under makeup and rarely leave the white cast associated with heavier mineral formulas. The trade-off is that they can feel drying on very dry skin, which is why they are layered over a moisturiser.
- Milk and essence textures: light, fast-absorbing, best under makeup.
- Gel and water textures: refreshing, good for humid weather and body use.
- Cream textures: more cushioned, better for dry skin and winter.
Part 3
How much to apply, and when to reapply
The rating on the bottle is measured at a thickness most people never apply. For the face, the practical guideline is roughly a fingertip-and-a-half, or about a coin-sized amount, applied evenly rather than rubbed thin. Reapplication matters more than the number on the label.
- Face: about 0.8 g, roughly a large coin, applied in two thin passes.
- Reapply every two to three hours outdoors, or after swimming and heavy sweating.
- Over makeup, reapply with a sunscreen stick, cushion or powder rather than skipping it.
Part 4
Water resistance and daily wear
Many Japanese sunscreens are water resistant enough for a commute in the rain or a humid afternoon, but water resistance is not permanence. Products labelled for swimming still need reapplication after towel-drying. On ordinary days, the more relevant question is whether the finish suits your skin, because a sunscreen you dislike is a sunscreen you will not wear.
- Water-resistant does not mean waterproof; towelling removes a substantial amount.
- Some formulas need a dedicated cleansing oil to remove fully.
- Match the finish — matte, dewy or tinted — to how you use it.
Part 5
Common mistakes
Most sunscreen failures are application failures. Too little product, missed edges, and no reapplication account for far more damage than the choice of formula. Indoor days are not exempt: UVA passes through window glass, which is why daily wear is standard practice in Japan regardless of the weather.
- Do not forget the ears, neck, hairline and the backs of the hands.
- Sunscreen goes on after skincare and before makeup, never mixed into moisturiser.
- Cloudy days still deliver UVA; the habit should not depend on the forecast.