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Japanese beauty and supplement glossary

用語集 · Reference

Japanese beauty and supplement glossary

The label terms, ingredients and category words that appear on Japanese packaging — translated and explained.

Japanese packaging is informative if you can read it, and opaque if you cannot. This glossary covers the words that change a buying decision: product categories, regulatory markings, texture descriptions and the ingredients Japanese formulas are built around.

Part 1

Category words

Japanese skincare names its categories precisely, and the names describe function rather than marketing position. Knowing four of them — keshosui, bihaku, nyueki and biyoueki — is enough to navigate most of a drugstore shelf without reading anything else.

  • Category names tell you where a product sits in the routine.
  • The same word is used across every price tier.
  • Texture words are usually printed alongside the category.

Part 2

Regulatory markings

Two markings change what a product is legally allowed to claim: iyakubugaihin, the quasi-drug category, and the Tokuho mark on foods with approved health claims. Both indicate an approved active at an approved level rather than a marketing statement.

  • Quasi-drug: approved active, approved concentration, regulated claim.
  • Tokuho: government-approved health claim on a food product.
  • Neither marking is a quality ranking — it describes the claim, not the formula.

Part 3

Texture and finish words

Texture words appear on nearly every Japanese skincare box and are the fastest way to choose between two versions of the same product. They describe how the product finishes on the skin, which is the difference between a formula you wear daily and one you abandon.

  • Sappari: light and fresh.
  • Shittori: moist and cushioned.
  • Both often appear as two variants of the same lotion.

A to Z

Terms you will see on Japanese packaging

Keshosui化粧水 · lotion
The hydrating liquid applied straight after cleansing. Despite the English translation 'lotion', it is watery rather than creamy, and it is patted in and left on rather than wiped off like a Western toner.
Nyueki乳液 · emulsion
A light milky moisturiser applied after lotion and serum. It seals in the hydrating layers without the weight of a cream, and is the standard moisturising step in a Japanese routine.
Biyoueki美容液 · serum or essence
A concentrated treatment step applied between lotion and emulsion. Japanese serums are usually targeted at a single concern such as hydration, brightening or firmness.
Bihaku美白 · brightening
Products aimed at evenness of tone and the appearance of dark spots, generally by limiting melanin production. It refers to clarity and evenness rather than lightening the skin's natural colour.
Iyakubugaihin医薬部外品 · quasi-drug
A regulated category between cosmetics and medicines. It means the product contains an approved active ingredient at an approved concentration for a stated purpose, with regulated wording on the claim.
Tokuho特定保健用食品 · food for specified health uses
A food category whose health claim has been individually approved by the Japanese government on the basis of clinical evidence. It carries a distinctive mark on the packaging.
Sappariさっぱり · light finish
A texture description meaning fresh and light, leaving no tackiness. Usually the version of a product intended for humid weather, oilier skin, or summer use.
Shittoriしっとり · moist finish
A texture description meaning moist and cushioned. Usually the version intended for dry skin, dry air and winter, and the counterpart to a sappari version of the same product.
Sunscreen PA ratingPA+ to PA++++
Japan's UVA protection scale, printed alongside SPF. More plus signs indicate greater protection against the wavelengths associated with ageing and pigmentation.
Hatomugiはとむぎ · Job's tears
A grain extract used widely in inexpensive Japanese lotions for lightweight hydration and a soothing, non-greasy finish. Common in large-volume drugstore products.
Kome / rice ferment米発酵液 · rice ferment filtrate
A fermented rice liquid rich in amino acids, used across price tiers for hydration and skin softening. One of the ingredients most associated with Japanese skincare.
Tsubaki椿油 · camellia oil
Camellia seed oil, traditionally used in Japan for hair and skin. Light for an oil, high in oleic acid, and common in cleansing oils and final-step treatments.
Sake kasu酒粕 · sake lees
The residue left after sake brewing, used in masks and lotions for its amino acids and enzymes. A traditional ingredient with a distinctive fermented scent.
Placenta extractプラセンタ
A supplement and cosmetic ingredient popular in Japan's beauty-from-within category, usually derived from porcine or equine sources and sold as drinks, jellies and capsules.
W-cleansingダブル洗顔 · double cleanse
The two-step cleansing method: an oil or balm to dissolve sunscreen and makeup, followed by a water-based wash. Some products are labelled as not requiring it.

Questions

Glossary questions

What does keshosui mean?

It is the Japanese word for the hydrating lotion applied after cleansing. It is watery rather than creamy, and it is patted in and left on rather than wiped away.

What is the difference between nyueki and cream?

Nyueki is a light milky emulsion that seals in the previous layers; a cream is richer and heavier. Many routines use one or the other depending on season.

Does bihaku mean skin lightening?

No. It refers to evenness and clarity of tone, and to reducing the appearance of dark spots, rather than lightening the skin's natural colour.

What does iyakubugaihin mean on a box?

It marks a quasi-drug: a regulated category containing an approved active ingredient at an approved concentration, with the permitted claim printed in regulated wording.

Should I choose sappari or shittori?

Sappari for humid weather, oilier skin and summer; shittori for dry air, dry skin and winter. They are usually two versions of the same product.

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Browse the Japanese catalogue with the vocabulary to know what you are buying.

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